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Time for a change of scenery and a look at one of the petrified forests in Patagonia. And so we continued along Ruta 3, the primary highway on the eastern coast. Along the way we made several futile attempts to fill our tank with Euro Diesel, the cleaner option that is readily available in Europe and North America. The supply doesn’t often match the demand here and we sometimes have to take the “Utra Diesel” that’s used by big rigs and older vehicles…not good for late model engines nor the environment. Our last hope was the windblown town of Caleta Olivia.
Our itinerary to Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city in the world.
Nightfall was approaching so we bought some empanadas to go and continued on RN3 for El Monumento Naturales Bosques Petrificados. Then we detoured west to the park along a relatively decent gravel road. Since camping is prohibited in the park we stopped at La Paloma, a rundown former estancia (ranch). Facilities were minimal though we appreciated the hot showers and communal kitchen. We were the only ones there except for a young couple from Moscow who arrived later on.
It was warmer the next morning, but the ever present Patagonian wind was with us. Locals had told us that the wind always blows here but is worse this year. The petrified forest was not exactly what we had expected but still interesting. The Visitor Center provided archeological and geographical information, then we began our 2 km walk around the barren landscape. We hiked through the remains of the flourishing Jurassic forests which were buried by intense volcanic activity 150 million years ago. Here and there were fallen petrified trees and bits of wood. It began to heat up as we ascended to the mirador (lookout) and for once we felt that we had overdressed.
The road to Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados, Argentina
Fossils in Visitor Center, Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados, Argentina
Petrified wood in Visitor Center, Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados, Argentina
Fallen tree on the trail, Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados, Argentina
Fallen tree on the trail, Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados, Argentina
From there we returned to Ruta 3, via the previously mentioned rough road to Puerto San Julián, a small dusty town along a picturesque bay. It is considered the cradle of European settlement in Patagonia. Magellan landed here in 1520 and we saw a replica of his original ship in the port. One of the major attractions here is a theme park where one can view costumed characters from back in the day. Along the road we could see a cross that marked the spot where the first Catholic mass was held. There is also a memorial to the heroes of the Malvinas War of 1982 (also known as the Falkland Islands). Never utter the words “Falkland Islands” while in Argentina!
We had planned to stay at the municipal campground in Puerto San Julián but were not impressed by the facilities. Further south Parque Nacional Monte León. We took the turnoff another long gravel road and found the designated camping area. The park is a former estancia (ranch) and protects 600km of Patagonian steppe and headlands, as well as 40 km of beaches, bays and tidal flats. We walked along a deserted beach, then to the Southern Sea Lion and Magallanic Penguin colonies.
Gray fox at our campsite, Nacional Parque Monte León, Argentina
Beach at Parque Nacional Monte León, Argentina
Beach walk, Parque Nacional Monte León, Argentina
Magellanic penguins returning from a fishing expedition, Parque Monte León, Argentina
Onward we went, through the windy and unattractive city of Rio Gallegos .It is a center for gas and oil production and travelers stop here mainly to stock up on supplied for their journey. The only decent campground here was 18 km north of town. We had accidentally passed it on the way in and had to return. Then we ended up staying two nights and passed through the control 5 times. Depending on who was there and that person’s mood, we were either waved on through or asked to show our documents. Then we continued on to our destination.
There is no direct road to the Argentine side of Tierra del Fuego and we briefly had to cross the border into Chile. Naturally, we had to go through immigration. We passed through 3 different windows, filled out 3 different forms and had our passports stamped about 6 times each! And then… the food police! We had thought we were prepared this time, having eaten all our fresh food and, with the exception of 4 boiled eggs, had no animal products. Alas, I admitted to having honey, since we had been warned of a fine lest we conceal anything. They also made off with Andre’s peanuts, I supposed because they wanted a snack. Next was a short ferry across the Strait of Magellan. From there we had 80 km of rough road along “Ruta al Fin del Mundo” (Road to the End of the World) before we returned to Argentina. The name of Ruta Al Fin del Mundo has a romantic ring to it but don’t be fooled, it’s a long dusty ride…
Chilean Customs building, passing through Chile on our way to Ushuaia, Argentina
On the way to Tierra fel Fuego! Ruta del Fin del Mundo, Chile
Crossing the Strait of Magellan, Puerto Delgado, Chile
Crossing the Strait of Magellan, Puerto Delgado, Chile
Back in Argentina, we continued to the bleak and windy seaport town of Rio Grande. Again the police were guarding the entrance to the town but they waved us through. The city looked like it was on the verge of expansion – many factories and evidence of new housing for workers. While walking along the seafront we found a poignant memorial to the fallen heroes of the Malvinas (Falkland Islands) War. We found a campsite near the seafront that was protected from the fierce wind and left the next morning for Ushuaia.
Monument to the fallen heroes of the Malvinas (Falkland Islands) War, Rio Grande, Argentina
A few words should be said about some of the interesting fellow travelers we have met along the road. Most of them have been European, mainly French, Dutch, German and Swiss. Except for the young backpackers and a few motorcyclists, they have shipped high quality overland vehicles from home. Most of them are prepared to stay for a year or longer. We enjoyed speaking to all of them, sharing travel tips and a few laughs. Most of them drive RVs or specially equipped overland 4x4s such as custom built Land Rovers. The Swiss often have vehicles that resemble armored trucks. In Puerto San Julián we met a couple from Toulouse, France. They were about our age and drove a humongous RV with all the comforts of home. Although they were here on their own, their travel resumé also included a journey with an organized group from Paris to Beijing, then back via Istanbul.
Itinerary map on the front of French travelers’ RV, Puerto San Julián, Argentina
In Rio Grande we met a gregarious young motorcyclist from Seoul, South Korea. He is currently on an around-the-world 3 year trip, beginning in Alaska. After picking up his friend in Mexico City, they continued through Central America on to Tierra del Fuego. Next stop will be Africa, then Europe…
Intrepid bikers from South Korea on an around the world journey, Rio Grande, Argentina
Yet another police control as we left Rio Grande, then back to the steppe. The scenery changed a bit along the way. It appeared as though pine trees had been planted at one time but had died due to the dry arid climate and wind. We saw a few cows though the quality of the grass was poor. Suddenly, real living trees loomed on the horizon… and then about 100km from Ushuaia we saw snowcapped mountains and lakes. Woo hoo!
Along Ruta Nacional 3, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
3000 km (1874 mi) from Buenos Aires, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
After arriving in Ushuaia we were eager to explore the first attractive city we had seen since Puerto Madryn. We were so excited to arrive in the southernmost city on earth! Although we had hoped to see the sun at midnight, we happily settled for a magnificent sunset at 10:45 pm. The next day we visited the Museo Yámaná that told the fascinating but tragic story of the indigenous people of Tierra del Fuego. Despite the extreme climate here, the Yamaná wore no clothes. They were nomads and since it rains here daily they believed that the oil from their bodies was more protective than wet animal fur. With the arrival of the European settlers, their way of life became a memory. We learned that there was only one speaker of their language still living. I bought her collection of stories in the museum gift shop.
City entrance, Ushuaia, Argentina
We made it! Ushuaia, Argentina
Port, Ushuaia, Argentina
Historical murals, Ushuaia, Argentina
Historical murals, Ushuaia, Argentina
Museo Yamaná, Ushuaia, Argentina
Photo of Yamaná family, ca 1920 in Museo Yamaná, Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
Close to Ushuaia is Nacional Parque Tierra del Fuego. Despite the usual gravel roads within the park, we enjoyed our stay, camping at the picturesque Lago Roca. It was muddy there (did I mention that it rains every day?) but the setting was lovely and the showers at the campground were amazingly HOT! The next day we attempted a scenic hiking trail that would provide a panoramic view. About a mile up the slope, though, we ran into very squishy mud and we didn’t have wading boots for the flowing stream so we regretfully retreated. We did have some wonderful views along the way at least.
View from our hike on Pampa Alta Trail, Parque Tierra del Fuego,, Argentina
View from our hike on Pampa Alta Trail, Parque Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
We next wanted to visit Chilean Patagonia and to do this we had to retrace our journey to Rio Grande and go through the same tedious border crossing routine. On the way back we drank in the magnificent Andes and pristine Fuegian lakes before hitting the monotonous steppe…
Paso Garibaldi, RN 3, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina