Our wonderful week in Buenos Aires had come to an end and it was time to begin our road trip. We had hoped to take a ferry across Rio de la Plata directly to Montevideo, where we had our stored our camper. It turned out that the schedule was not convenient for us and we needed to ferry to Colonia del Sacramento and then continue by bus to Montevideo, a full day trip. Another storm was looming and we crossed our fingers that we would be able to get a taxi at 6:45 am, in order to get to Puerto Madero on time to embark. This time we were in luck, despite the fact that we had forgotten to take the keys from our apartment to let ourselves out to meet our impatient taxi driver! Fortunately Andre’s ingenuity saved the day and soon we were on our way. By the time the deluge started we were safely on board the “Buquebus,” ready to go!
Thirty minutes later we arrived in Colonia, where a bus was waiting to drive us to Montevideo. Then we continued by taxi to the Automobile Club of Uruguay to pick up “Betsy California II,” our home away from home. Andre reconnected the battery and soon we were on our way east to Camping San Rafael in La Barra. For the next few days we busied ourselves with settling in and getting accustomed to resuming our nomadic life on the road. It was early in the season and with very few exceptions we had the campground to ourselves. It was sunny but cool and definitely not beach weather yet.
When we were ready we headed back to Argentina, going northwest to the border at Frey Bentos. It was a pleasant drive with a lot of shade trees along the road and we passed through quaint villages and farmland. It was slow going on the road though and we had to overnight near the border.
We had crossed the border here on the way to back to Uruguay at the end of our journey earlier this year. Just like the last time we found it very easy, with no aggressive agricultural inspectors. To play it safe, though, we had no fresh produce or animal products to declare and had to stock up on provisions as soon as we found a supermarket. We continued northwest into the Central Sierras where we had passed last year. Previously, we’d had no time to visit anything but now we had the luxury of stopping in Alta Gracia. It’s a touristic town, famous for its Franciscan Estancias as well as being the childhood home of revolutionary Ernesto Che Guevara. While we were there we toured the Jesuit Block and Estancias of Córdoba, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I especially enjoyed connecting with Che’s spirit since my vacation reading includes his Motorcycle Diaries.
There is one campground in Alta Gracia and we were the only campers there. The next day we left for La Pampilla, where we searched for La Cabrada del Condorita (Protected area for condors). Alas, we had arrived too late in the day to hike to the nesting area and there was an exceptionally biting cold wind that day. We spoke to two women who had just returned from the hike and learned that there were few of them to see this time of year. That was a disappointment so we continued on after going to the Visitor Center.
From there we continued on to the picturesque town of Mina Clavero and camped next to the Mina Clavero River.
It was time to head toward Chile now and drove south toward Patagonia. Sure enough, we were stopped by the food police who wanted to confiscate our fruit in the hope of protecting Patagonia from the fruit fly. They only noticed that we had two apples and two oranges, although we also had other fruit that wasn’t refrigerated. Andre insisted on eating the apples on the spot, so they only got the oranges! They had told us to stay there and throw the cores into the garbage but we simply drove on… Finally we arrived in the town of Malarguë, where we found a municipal campground with hot showers. The next day we were on our way to Chile, through the magnificent Andes, still covered with snow. In addition to being picturesque and free of traffic, the border crossing at Paso Peheuenche was much more pleasant than most and soon we were on our way…
Check out our slideshow HERE:
Loved your pics and commentary as usual. Gotta hand it to you guys, you certainly are intrepid. I love the Puerto Madero area of BA, ate at some fine restaurants there. Have not read the “Motorcycle Diaries” but saw the film with Gael Garcia Bernal, it’s great to see the actual motorcycle. Your journey looks very exciting.
Have a wonderful holiday season with your family.
Many hugs,
Frank
Thanks, Frank, best holiday wishes to you too! Besos y abrazos xoxox